UPDATE: 32. Report 5/1/22 - On the road again & many encounters
The new year has begun. I'm back on the road as a pilgrim.
The day begins early with chanting from the temple loudspeaker. I'm about 6 km east of Ottopalam.
But I can't find a toilet that's already open. I'm sent around until I can't anymore. Then it's time to do the laundry. This too can be a worthwhile exercise.
The next destination on this long journey is Kozhikode, a larger city on the west coast. In the West it is better known as Calicut. Vasco de Gama landed here more than 500 years ago. He succeeded where Columbus had failed a few years earlier: discovering the sea route to India.
On the way there are several churches and convents. At some I am received very generously, at others with suspicion.
Then a man with a mute expression comes up to me. He stretches out his hand. I think it's a beggar. But his face looks clear and intelligent with big glasses. He takes my hand, twists it slightly and puts the back of his hand against his forehead. And goes on.
Soccer is important in Kerala. One often sees Paris Saint Germain jerseys. A boy of about twelve stops on his bike and invites me watch his team to the game in the evening.
Three young men pass giggling together on a moped; then they stop and ask for 10 rupees; now i giggle and hand it to them. They giggle again as they drive on. Reminds me of rascal pranks.
At lunch I meet Hari; he recommends a temple in the nearest large city as the next overnight accommodation - but there is still a long way to go.
A man is standing at the side of the road. Apparently he was watching me from afar. When I want to pass him, he asks if I have a few minutes. He explains that he is a teacher here at the higher secondary school and just drove past me. He had already obtained permission from his headmaster to invite me to the college for an interview.
In the afternoon I covered a good 15 kilometers. Finally there is a tea stand. Some people sit or stand in front of it. A man has an interesting smiling face and he gestures a welcoming hand over to my side of the street. I then order tea and a snack - and have the idea of ordering a plate of these small fried balls of dough and simply offering them to the nice group. - When I want to pay and move on, it says that someone has already paid the whole bill.
Later, Hari, the man from lunch who gave the tip about staying at the temple, overtakes me in his car. He adds that I could stay with him if there were problems at the temple - and gives his phone number.
It's long since dark when I arrive in the city after 24 kilometers. And again I meet Hari. He shows the way to the temple. And just before the temple he is there again - such a coincidence!
In the temple I am instructed to bare my upper body in order to be allowed into the buildings. That's where I make a strategic mistake: instead of simply walking in shirtless, I first ask one of the people about the opportunity to stay the night.
This request triggers questioning faces. Suddenly I can no longer enter the temple because only Indians are allowed - that is a decision of the Kerala government. Then: The luggage also had to be taken outside to the outskirts. - Apparently the overnight stay works, the responsible priest is introduced to me. But because someone is on the phone with a higher authority, suddenly nothing works anymore; I have to go.
A few minutes later Hari picks me up. It's only a few minutes away. He proudly presents his beautiful home on the hillside, introduces me to his nice family with the small children, brings good food and takes great care of me.
UPDATE 3/3/22:
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